All this fuss about the Cronut, the new Frankenpastry that is half croissant, half doughnut. Yes, yes, the daily supply of 300 at Dominique Ansel’s SoHo bakery is gone in a flash, even with a limit of two per person. It’s delectably cream-filled and flakily layered. But really, it’s just the latest iteration of the croissant in the last 325 years or so. 人们为了羊角包真是煞费苦心,这款全新的“弗兰肯酥皮包”(Frankenpastry)一半是羊角包,一半是甜甜圈。没错,没错,SoHo区的多米尼克·安塞尔(Dominique Ansel)面包房推出的这种新款面包每日限量供应300个,每人限购两个,眨眼就能卖光。它的奶油夹心令人喜爱,酥脆的薄片层次分明。但在羊角包长达325年左右的历史上,它只是旧风尚的最新回潮而已。 1600s
The Croissant 17世纪
羊角包诞生
It was created, or so legend and Larousse Gastronomique have it, by pastry chefs in Budapest in 1686 (or maybe in Vienna in 1683) to celebrate the defeat of the Turks. The buttery crescent-shaped roll was fashioned after the symbol on the Ottoman flag. (It must have arrived in France in Marie Antoinette’s luggage.)
根据传说或者《拉鲁斯美食大全》(Larousse Gastronomique)的说法,羊角包是1686年由布达佩斯的面包师(一说是1683年在威尼斯)为庆祝战胜土耳其人发明出来的 。这种涂抹黄油的新月形面包卷是在模仿奥特曼帝国旗帜上的标志(它肯定是被玛丽·安托瓦内特[Marie Antoinette]带到法国来的)。 2013年,一半是羊角包,一半是甜甜圈的“新发明”。 1900s
The Couture Croissant 20世纪
花式羊角包
Over time, the French began adding embellishments of chocolate, almonds, raisins and custard to croissant dough, and giving it square or spiral
shapes. The ham-and-cheese croissant was also brought into existence. 随着时间过去,法国人开始用各种东西装饰羊角包——巧克力、杏仁、葡萄干和蛋奶糊,此外还把它做成方形或螺旋形状。火腿奶酪羊角包也开始出现。 1983
The Croissan'Wich
1983年
羊角三明治(The Croissan’Wich)
Burger King introduced its bloated Americanized croissant filled with sausage, egg and cheese, which might actually be a takeoff on the French croissant sandwich. The name is trademarked; the concept is not. 这一年汉堡王(Burger King)推出了自己的大号美国式羊角包,里面塞满香肠、鸡蛋和奶酪,可能是在法国的羊角包三明治基础上发展起来的。“The Croissan’Wich”这个名字被注册了;产品概念却没有被注册。 1997
The Pretzel Croissant 1997年
椒盐羊角包
Maury Rubin, a baker and the owner of City Bakery, came up with the pretzel croissant in the late 1990s and has sold an average of 500 of the sesame-dusted pastries every day since (except in Osaka, Japan, where a new City Bakery sells 1,200 a day, limit two to a customer).
“烘焙都市”的店主,面包师莫里·罗宾(Maury Rubin)在20世纪90年代末期发明了椒盐羊角包,自那以后,这种撒着芝麻的羊角包平均每天可以卖出500个(在日本大阪的“烘焙都市”新分店,这种椒盐羊角包平均每天可以卖出1200个,每名顾客限购两个)。 2011
The Croque Croissant 2011年
法式羊角包
Eric Bedoucha, the chef and a partner at the Financier pastry-shop chain, started making the croque croissant: a croque-monsieur in a croissant. It’s classically done, a ham-and-cheese croissant that’s baked and slathered with béchamel so the shops can offer a hot breakfast item.
“金砖”(Financier)蛋糕连锁店的合伙人之一,厨师埃里克·贝都卡(Eric Bedoucha)发明了法式羊角包:把法国特有的“先生三明治”(croque-monsieur)与羊角包结合起来。它的做法很经典,就是烘焙过的火腿奶酪羊角包,再厚厚涂上一层奶油酱汁,这样面包房就可以为顾客提供一顿热乎乎的早餐。 2013
Yummm! Bun 2013
Yummm! Bun
Just two weeks ago, Don and Chika Tillman, the owners of Dessert Club, ChikaLicious in the East Village, created the Yummm! Bun, a puffy cinnamon bun made with croissant pastry. They open at 7 a.m., but you do not have to get up at dawn; the buns are available until midnight.
就在两周前,东村的“甜点俱乐部,ChikaLicious”的老板唐(Don)和柴卡·迪尔曼(Chika Tillman)推出了“Yummm! Bun”,这是一种口感蓬松的肉桂面包卷,是用羊角包的酥皮做成的。他们上午7点开门,不过你用不着一大早就去排队;这种面包一直到午夜都有售。
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