制鞋过程之专业术语
一. 满邦鞋制作过程
总体流程
1.basic documents 原始资料 2.trial sample shoe 试版鞋
3.develop sample shoe 开发样鞋 4.sales sample shoe 销售样鞋
5.confirm sample shoe 确认样鞋 6.order placed 接订单
7.prepare material 备料 8.mass production大量生产
9.cutting 裁断 10.stitching 制面
11.semi-product 半产品 12.assemble成型
A. 制面stitching
1. vamp scissoring and cementing鞋面成型 2.vamp folding and cementing折贴鞋面
3. trimming for vamp and lining整修鞋面内里 4.hole punching buckle打钉饰扣
5. gore cementing粘松紧带 6.stitching针车
7. vamp stitching车合鞋面 8.ornament stitching车饰物
9. vamp binding滚合鞋面 10.inspecting/inspection品检
11.packing打包 12.transferring to assembling移交底部
B. 成型assemble
1.prepare material 备料 2.mass production大量生产
3.insole staple on last入中底于楦上 4. cementing 上糊
5.toe lasting前邦 6.forepart lasting中邦
7.counter lasting 后邦 8.waxing打蜡处理
9.heating 加硫 10. pull out staple 拔钉
11.brush oil/brush cream打鞋乳 12.wheeling砂磨
13. brush fabric or brush horse打布轮或马毛轮 14. priming药水处理
15. cementing上糊 16. heating/drying加热烘干
17.sole laying贴合 18. sole press压底
19.cooling冷却 20.pull-out last拔楦
21.fixing整理 22. cleaning清洁
23.sock laying入鞋垫 24.waxing打蜡处理
25.tying(tie的现在分词)绑标 26.packing包装
27.put cardboard and tissue paper上套版与纸团 28.general packing大包装
29.inspection验货 二. 女装高跟鞋制作过程
总体流程
1.basic documents 原始资料 3.develop sample shoe试版鞋 5.confirm sample shoe确认样鞋 7.prepare material备料 9.cutting裁断 11.semi-product半成品 13.assemble成型
A. 制面stitching
30. shipment出货
2.trial sample shoe试版鞋
4.sales sample shoe销售样鞋 6.order place接订单
8.mass production大量生产
10.stitching制面
12.three in one三合一
1.vamp scissoring and cementing鞋面成型 2.put on reinforced folding edge补强拗边
3. trimming for vamp and lining整修鞋面,内里 4.stitching 针车
5.vamp stitching车合鞋面 6. vamp binding滚合鞋面
7.inspecting品检 8.packing打包
9. transferring to assembling移交底部
B. 成型assemble
1.prepare material 备料 2.mass production大量生产
3. insole staple on last 入中底于楦上 4.cementing上糊
5.toe lasting前邦 6.forepart lasting中邦
7.counter lasting后邦 8.waxing打蜡处理
9. heating加硫 10.pull out staple拔钉
11.brush oil/brush cream打鞋乳 12.brush fabric or brush horse打布轮或马毛轮
13.wheeling砂磨 14.cementing上糊
15.heating/drying加热烘干 16.sole laying贴合
17.press sole压底 18.cooling 冷却
19.pull-out last拔楦 20.fixing整理
21.heel nailing后跟打钉 22.inspecting 检查
23.cleaning 清洁 24.sock laying 入鞋垫
25.waxing 打蜡处理 26.tying 绑标
27.put cardboard &tissue paper上套版与纸团
28.packing包装 29.general packing大包装
30.inspecting验货 31.shipment出货
三. 凉鞋制作过程(加州鞋扣例)
总体流程
1.basic documents原始资料 2.trial sample shoe试版鞋
3.develop sample shoe开发样鞋 4.sales sample shoe销售样鞋
5.confirm sample shoe确认样鞋 6.order place接订单
7.prepare material 备料 8.mass production大量生产
9.cutting裁断 10.stitching制面
11.semi-production半成品 12.assemble成型
A. 制面stitching
1.vamp scissoring and cementing鞋面成型
2.trimming for vamp backi strap &lining整修鞋面后带内里
3.hole punching buckle打钉饰扣 4.gore cementing粘松紧带
5.stitching针车 6.vamp stitching车合鞋里
B. 半成品three-in-one component
1.insole convering包中底 2.cementing上糊 4.gluing贴合 5.inspection品检 7.cementing上糊 8.drying烘干 10.inspecting品检 11.packing包装 12.transferring to assemble移交给成型
C.成型assemble
1.prepare material备料 2.mass production大量生产 3.insole staple on last入中底于楦上 4.cementing上糊
3.drying烘干 6.heel covering包跟 9.guling贴合
5.vamp lasting拉前带 6.back strap lasting拉后带 7.counter lasting后邦 8.inspection品检
9.heating加硫 10.pull out staple拔钉
11.wheeling砂磨 12.primring药水处理
13.cementing上糊 14.heating/drying加热烘干
15.sole laying贴合 16.sole press压底
17.inspecting品检 18.cooling冷却
19.pull-out last拔楦 20.fixing整理
21.inspecting品检 22.cleaning清洁
23.waxing打蜡处理 24.tying绑标
25.put cardboard and tissue paper入套版与纸团
26.packing包装 27.general packing大包装
28.inspecting验货 29.shipment出货
鞋类英文的颜色
aqua 水兰色 azurk 天兰色 army 军绿色
antique violet古紫色 amber 琥珀色 alloy 古银色
burgundy 酒红色 baby pink 浅粉红色 blonze浅黄色
brandy 土黄色 blue 蓝色 black blue 黑蓝色
brown 咖啡色 bright 灰色 butter scotch 奶油色 british tan 茶色 balsamo 绿色 cognac 棕色 chatcoal深灰色 coral 珊瑚色 camel lux 骆驼色 celery green 茱绿色 c.cream 米白色 buck 浅棕色 bone 骨色 bronze 铜色 biscotti 淡褐色 croco 浅咖啡色 chestnut 栗色 camgurao 青沙色 copper 古铜色 cappuccino 奶油色 camp anula 蓝色 c.red 红色 黑色
butter 奶油色
blaze 火红
bitter sweet 红色
chocolate巧克力色 chamois骨色
cream 乳白色
cork 土黄色
coffee 咖啡色
c.navy 蓝色
cranberry 红色
black
cuba 黄橙 色 coralline 橙色 cordovan 橙色
chestnut 栗色 cherry 樱桃色 earth yellow土黄色
espresso 咖啡色 fuchea 桃红色 fushia桃红色/紫红色
fashion red 品红 flannel 黑灰色 fawn米色 flame 火红色 grape 深祡色 granny smith 浅绿色 gunsmoke 烟灰色 bing cherry 鲜红色 bali浅绿色 brunt tan 棕褐色 crimson 酒红色 fatigue 橄榄绿色 flax 亚麻色 fog 褐色 grey blue 灰蓝色 gray/grey 灰色 garnet 紫红色 hay 干草色 buff 暗黄色 奶油色 beige./white 米色/白色 carnation 玫瑰色 fudge 咖啡色
fushia 桔色
f.green 录色
green 绿色
gold 金色
graham浅黄色
heather 混色
bisque 米黄色
beige 米色
bogar 紫色
champagne 香槟色 buck skin
camel 骆驼色 Caribbean浅水兰色 Cobalt blue 钻蓝色/艳蓝色
Cauteloag green 海堂绿色 Cantaloup 甜瓜色 Navy blue 藏青色
Nelon green 绿色 New camel 新驼色 Nother pearl 珍珠白色
New.espisso 新咖色 New.blue 新绿色 Natural camon 米黄 Orange 桔色 Olive橄榄色 denim 牛仔兰色 dusty lilac 灰紫色 daino 米黄色 d.tan 深茶色 drimrose 玫瑰色 purple 紫色 platinum 白金色 New.scarlet 新红色 New.red 新红色
New.taupe 新青沙色 New.navy 新绿蓝色
Nutmeg 土黄色 Ombre 彩色
Orchid 葡萄色 Ohio浅绿色
Choc 巧克力色 d.blue 海军蓝色
drab 军绿色 dmerald 翠绿色
d.taupe 深青色 dark camel 深驼色
d.brn 深咖色 d.moss 苔藓
deep burgundy 深酒红色 desert 沙色
d.red 深红色 d.navy 深蓝色
pearl 珍珠白 pealizebone珠光色pewter 铁灰色 紫红色/梅色
plum
peony 牡丹红色 port 深紫红色 poppy深桔红色
pebble 石头色 peari pink 桃红色 perwinkle 湖水色
petal pink 桃红色 red红色 petticoat pink 紫桃色rose 浅红色
ruby 暗红色 hibiscus 桃红色honey 蜜蜂色/土黄色 henna 棕红色 hydrangea 天蓝色hyac inth 红色 indigo 蓝色 ivy 浅绿色
ice 冰白色 ivory 象牙色 ice-silver 冰银色
ice blue冰绿 jade 绿玉色 jade green 翠绿色
jeans 牛仔兰 jaffa 桔色 jute 黄麻色
white 白色 rough 红色 raisin 紫色
sky 天空色 sport 红色 senior ruby 酒红色scarlet 猩红/绯红
salmon pink 橙红色 shocking pink 鲜粉红色sobert 青瓜色 stybrn 红棕色 smoke 烟灰色 stone 沙色/石头色 sand 沙色 snow white 雪白色speel 锡灰色 silver 银色 sahara 沙色
ocean 海水蓝色 pink粉红色 pastel blue 粉红色
peach 粉桃色 paprika辣椒红 petal 花瓣色
pistachio 黄绿色 pkussian blue 海军兰色 pastel 粉兰色
pansy 紫罗兰色 pastel pink 粉紫色 kiwi 翠绿色
khaki 卡其色 lemon 柠檬色 l.blue 浅兰色
leaf 叶绿色 lime 苹果绿色 lilacky 浅紫色
lavender 粉紫色 l.brown 浅咖啡色 l.taupe 浅青沙色
loden 茉莉色 lipstick 红色 lagoon 天空兰色 neonorange 桔色 turk天兰色 rust 铁红 rosa 粉色 rice 稻草色 tea 绿/茶色 trans linen 米色 turq 水兰色 leaden 铅灰色 lt.pink浅桃红色 m.brn 中咖色 natural 米黄色/自然色 red burgm 葡萄酒红 red tan 红棕色 riota 粉色 red/white 红/白 turouiose 青绿色 taupe 青沙色 vanilla 香草色 l.golden 浅金色
laguna 水湖兰色
m.green 绿色
navy 蓝色
rose red 玫瑰红
rum 浅咖色
rose water 酒红色
rock 石头色
tan 茶色/棕色
tobacco烟草色
violet 紫罗兰色/紫红色
vioca 菜色 viola 紫色 Virginia 红色
Whisper 淡红色/降紫色 Wine 酒红色 Walnut 浅棕色
White 白色 Winter white冬白色/米色 Winter blue 冬蓝色
Whisky 威士忌色 whister blue 灰蓝色 salvia绿色 saddle棕色 s.navy蓝色 toast土司色 yellow黄色 lime ice柠檬绿色 loive 酒红色 moss黑绿色 misty gray雾灰色 w.wht 白色 wick 古铜色 scarlet鲜红色 s.brn咖色 s.moss苔藓色 whistle blue蓝色 l.tobacco浅烟灰色 lime green柠檬绿色 lord lino珊瑚红 melon甜瓜色 mist雾色 wheat麦色
straw稻草色
sage草绿色
summer camel 新驼色
topaz金黄色
winter red冬红色
l.green浅绿色
luster goid 珠光金色 mause紫红
mocha 浅咖啡色
mica锡金色
molasses奶油色 morning blue兰色 merlot葡萄酒红色
mango芒果色 mushroom褐色 mother peapl桃红色
鞋类质量检验
第一節 鞋类质量检验专业术语
activator活性剂 adhesion test胶着力试验 mulling蒸湿鞋面
adjust调整 age resistor抗老化剂 assembly成型组合
base plane水平基面 mockay修改 beveling中底斜削
bending test弯曲试验 binding滚边
bottom side forming底部成型 branding贴商标
butted seam平头接缝 cable stitching粗线车线
cemented skinning贴合内里/胶水表层凝固现象 backpart center seam后踵中央接缝
center line中间线 layout流程布置 channel纹沟
closed seam密接缝 component组件 compound混合
contour轮廓 counter sample对等样品 cut out开饰词
dressing表面涂饰 glue胶渍 outside welt stitching车外线
pin tuck鞋面折缝 prick mark针孔记号 production line生产线
put on last入楦 mckay process内线车底法 retain the shape保持形状
roughing磨粗 semi-product半成品 slip sesistance test耐滑试验 specific gravity比重 stitch marking车缝记号 stripping抽条 thread point着地点 trimming修边 water based cement水溶性接着剂 migration移动,流动 mold release 脱模剂 pinch in 缩进去 piped seam 滚条接缝 edge inking 底边上胶 equipment设备 fine stitching缝细线 flexibility弯曲性 grading级放 heat setting加热定型 clean清理 color fading test褪色试验 side pressing压边
stapling打空气钉
thickness厚度
tying绑标识
line up产前问题分析
open seam露边接缝
processing制程
fancy stitching花缀缝
fussy毛边
heel wedge appearance鞋跟外观
combustible 易燃物
compression test 耐压试验 cracking test耐挠试验 double needle双针
drying烘干 elongation test伸长率试验 eyelet punching打鞋眼孔
finish鞋饰 first cementing第一次上糊 folding折边
heat sealing高周波接合 heel attaching钉鞋跟
insole stapling on last入中底于楦上 last slipping脱楦 lasting allowance钳邦位
hole punching and buckle inserting打钉饰扣 original equipment manufacture原厂委托制造
last bottom central line楦头盘底中线 action of sulphur vapor耐硫化试验
laying and cementing on welt and shank贴糊插铁心 pull out last拔楦
outsole shaping thin大底削薄 second cementing第二次上糊
stitch length针距 sewing thread缝线 size notch尺寸记号 soaking浸水 splitting片皮 stick length楦头长度
strain拉紧 surface scoured表面研磨 toe roughing 磨鞋头
trimming成品整理 turn yellow变黄 vulcanize硫化
water treatment test浸水试验 welted seam沿条接缝 work-in progress在制品
waxing打蜡
work ticket工作单 wrinkle/x-ray打皱 nail extracting拔钉
inspect检验 inventory control物料控制 lapped seam迭合车缝
back seam tack height后踵缝线高度 putting cardboard and tissue paper 上套板纸团
toe box laying and counter pocket cementing入前后套及上糊
counter pocket stamping内里印刷 certificate of inspection检验证书
第二节 国际品检十条
1. 鞋子之外观,烫金和印刷
Appearance of box and legibility stamping
2. 确定货号,颜色,尺寸及宽度符合采购单号码
Confirm the stock number, color, size and width to correspond with the P.O.#number
3. 鞋面之整体外观:看起来自然,亮丽,有光彩
General overall appearance of upper: look for naturalness eye-appealing luster]
4. 鞋子的内部:中底看起来引人注目,表面完全平整
Interior of shoe: see that sock lining and foam are visually appealing, feel vamp area for complete smoothness
5. 鞋底: 看起来手工干凈,表面平顺,底部贴底位置正确并进行了适当的修整
Bottom of sole: look for clean workmanship and smooth appearance, see that sole is properly placed and trimmed.
6. 鞋尖翘度及鞋跟着地点:将鞋放在水闰处,检查鞋头翘度是否正常及鞋跟着地点如何
Toe spring and heel tread: see shoe on level surface and check for normal toe spring and heel tread.
7. 中底及外底: 检查中底及外底之柔软度
Insole and outsole: check insole and outsole for flexibility
8. 套头,套后及铁心:检查套头及套后,弯折鞋子以确定装置铁心
Box toe, counter, and shank: examine alignment
9. 鞋跟高度及后腰高度:多检查几双鞋子,观测鞋面高度及后腰高度是否相同
Vamp heights and quarter heights: check for variance within a few pairs of shoes in vamp height and quarter height.
10. 吊牌及卷标: 确定鞋子吊牌,卷标是否与订单规定符合
Ticketing and labeling: verify accurate ticketing of shoes and labeling of cartons against confirmation order.
第三节 制面一般瑕疵
针车记号不正确 stitch marking is wrong
内里修得不够好 linings are not trimmed well enough
鞋眼扣掉漆 enamel is coming off the eyelets
针车压力不够 there is not enough pressure on sewing
削边不正确 shoe is skived incorrectly
拗边拗得不好 folding is not odded enough
针车压力太大 there is too much pressure on machine
鞋眼扣松动需紧合eyelets are loose and must be tighted
针码不足there are not enough stitches per inch
鞋眼扣须加垫圈washer must be used with eyelet
针码太密there are two many stitches per inch
车线的粗细不对the size of thread is wrong
针距太近边沿stitching is too close to edge
圆形转角车成方形round corners are being stitched square
鞋头未按记号针车tip is not stitched on mark-written position
必须使用加强带reinforcement tape must be used
后包片未按记号针车the outside counter is not stitched in correct position
加强带未放于正确位置上reinforcement tape is not in right place
滚口内里太多皱纹there are too many wrinkles in collar lining
泡棉太薄foam is not heavy enough
标志未车正确the label is not stitched correctly
滚口泡棉位置太低foam is not positioned high enough
修内里时修到了鞋面致使鞋面受损upper is damaged because of poor trimmed foam lining
滚边不好binding is not stitched correctly
鞋舌位商标错误tongue label is not is right location
沿打得不适合holes are not punched properly
皮料不好leather is not good
鞋眼洞应打透并清理干the punched holes must be cleaned out
针太大needle are too big
底线用错,颜色应与上端线同色 bobbin thread is in wrong color and must be as same as the top
领口未车于中心collar is not stitched in center
针车线不够结实thread is not strong enough
滚口内里太大collar lining is too big
内里未贴着良好lining is not cemented correctly
穿孔太大the perforation is too big
鞋口接合太深tongue are stitched in too high
鞋舌未接合于鞋眼片中央tongue is not stitched in the centre of eyelet
鞋眼太大 eyelets are too big
鞋眼太小 eyelets are too small
鞋舌接合太浅 tongue is stitched too low
材料边沿必须涂边处理 edge of material must be stained
邦脚车线边距太远 lasting allowance stitch is too far from edge
车线颜色不对 thread is not correct color
印刷不清晰 printing is not clear enough
第四节 成型一般瑕庛
中底发角 angle on insole
后带太低 backstrap too low
后带太短 backstrap too short
后带太紧 backstrap too tight
跟沿上胶 cement on heel
色差 color variation
发霉 get mildew
溢胶未整理清洁 over cement is not cleaned well enough
松紧带弹性不佳 gore too weak
跟不正 heel not straight
不对双 not in pair
铁心不正 shank not straight
底脱胶 sole comes off
变形 shape distortion
车缝不平均 stitching not even
未按记号点车缝 stitching not on the mark
鞋头不陷 toe broken down
特丽可得露出来 tricot shows up
攀鞋不平均 wrapping not even
颜色错误 wrong color
后带太高 back strap too high
后带太长 back strap too long
后带太松 back strap too loose
脱胶 cement comes off
接着力不佳 cementing not good
颜色不配双 color not matching
皮料瑕疵 defects of surface
钉子露出来 nail comes out
松线,浮线 loose thread
大底不平整 outsole not smooth
铁心太松 shank too loose
贴底不正确 sole laying not proper
空气钉露出来 staple comes out
鞋面皱纹 vamp wrinkle
攀鞋不紧 wrapping not tight
裁断错误 wrong cutting
前邦机扫刀未调整好 wipers are not adjusted correctly
鞋头角度不够 toe shape is not correct
鞋面不合楦头 upper pattern does not fit the last
鞋子清洁度太差 the shoes are not clean enough
大底打粗不够 outsole is not roughed well enough
边沿削皮不够 the edge is not skived well enough
大底贴合不良 the outsole is not cemented well enough
鞋垫与底上胶不良cementing insole is improperly for sock lining
鞋垫压着不良sock lining is not pressed correctly
后合缝线不正歪曲不直back seam is off center/crooked/not straight
停线the line stops/stop the line 鞋子不能接受必须剔除reject the shoes
鞋子必须翻箱整理the shoes are rejected and stop
中底印刷不正确sock stamp is not correct
材料因温度太高面变色material is turning color because of too heat
加硫箱温度不够高heat setter is not hot enough
大底修边太软toe box is too soft
鞋面上之修饰不够色top dressing does not match upper color
铁心不够坚硬steel shank is not hard enough
鞋面上之修饰不够色top dressing does not match upper color
鞋面打粗过高roughing lining comes out of sole edge
鞋头翘度不够toe spring is too high
邦角不足lasting allowance is not enough
邦角太宽 lasting allowance is too wide
鞋子在楦头上显得太松 topline looks too loose on last
鞋子在楦头上显得太紧 topline looks too tight on last
后跟邦角内外腰不一致 heel seat lasting-allowance is not as same as both sides
前港宝破裂toe box is broken
后套材料太软 counter material is too soft
大底颜色不对 color of outsole is not correct
楦头拔出后后邦破裂counter is busted when removing the last
烤箱温度太高使得大底太软outsole is too soft because of the high heat tunnel temperature
鞋垫印刷不正确 sock stamp is not correct
颜色不正确 color is wrong
鞋后高度不对 back height is wrong
鞋头长度不对 vamp lengths is wrong
清洁度不够shoes are not clean enough
鞋带不对 lace is wrong 大底太小 outsole is too small
成型鞋材料太亮 finished material is too bright
成型材料过于雾面 finished material is too foggy
左右脚色差 there is variation between left and right shoe
用太多纸团撑鞋造成变型 shoe is distorted because of too big paper filler
外箱印刷错误 cartons are marked wrong
盒子太大 box is too big
盒子太小 box is too small
盒子折得不够好 boxes are folded well
包跟皮料与鞋面颜色不可 shade of color on heel cover does not match that of the upper
填腹不正确 bottom fillers are wrong
天皮钉钉得不够深入 toplift nails are not stapled deeply enough
盒子的材质与所要求规格不符 box material do not follow the specified one of the sample order
大底太短 outsole is too short
大底针距不正确 stitches per inch on the outsole is not correct
天皮钉得不够牢 toplift is not secured well enough
内腰拉邦太松 it is too loose on inside quarter area
左右脚鞋头不一致 shape toes are not the same in pairs
中底定型不够好 insole is not moulded well enough
后跟钉太短 heel nails are too short
跟前踢 heel is kicking
大底太长 outsole is too long
线及线头未能修饰整齐 threads are not trimmed neatly enough
第五节 鞋履制成品试验
(Tests for finished footwear)
测试项目(test items)
1) 鞋底粘着强力adhesion of stuck-on and moulded-on soles
2) 鞋尖粘着力 toe band strength
3) 鞋跟粘着力heel bond strength
4) 鞋尖护盖粘着力toe guard bond strength
5) 边条粘着力foxing strength
6) 接缝强力seam strength
7) 尺码判定determination of shoes size
8) 真皮革占鞋在百分比率percentage by area of leather in upper material
9) 制成品储藏后外观appearance after storage under moist and warm condition
10) 高跟断裂强度breaking force of high heel
11) 结构分析construction analysis
12) 洗涤试验wash test first 3 washed/each additional wash
13) 鞋底防滑sole skid resistance
鞋面物料试验(test for upper material)
一. 纺织物料textile material
1) 布厚度 fabric thickness
2) 经纬密度 thread per unit length (woven fabric)
3) 纱支counts of yarn(per yarn)
4) 线圈密度stitch density(knitted fabric)
5) 抗张强度tensile strength(grab method)
6) 撕裂强度tear strength(tongue tear method)
7) 粘合强度adhesion strength of laminate
8) 破裂强度bursting strength
9) 耐磨试验abrasion resistance
10) 水洗缩率dimensional stability to washing (I wash)
11) 耐水洗坚牢度 color fastness to washing
12) 耐磨擦坚牢度 color fastness to rubbing(crocking)
13) 耐汗液坚牢度 color fastness to perspiration
14) 耐光坚牢度 color fastness to light
15) 防水试验 color fastness to water
16) 防水试验 water repellency
17) 纤维成分 fabric composition
18) 定性分析 qualitative analysis
19) 定量分析 quantitative analysis
二.真皮革类(leather)
1. 厚度 thickness
2. 密度 density
3. 抗张强度及伸长率 tensile
4. 破裂强度 grain crack
5. 撕裂强度 tear strength
6. 吸水度与干燥后重量损耗率free water absorption and percentage weight loss on soaking
7. 曲折试验 ross flexing
8. 耐磨试验abrasion resistance
9. 耐磨擦坚牢度color fastness to circular rubbing(crocking)
10. 耐溶剂试验color fastness to marking off
11. 耐水坚牢度color fastness to water BS1006 UK-LD-AATCC 107
12. 耐光坚牢度 color fastness to water BS1006 UK-LD-AATCC 107
13. 耐干洗坚牢度 color fastness to water BS1006 UK-LD-AATCC 107
14. 氧化铬含量 chrome oxide content
三.人造皮革类(PVC/PU coated materials)
1. 单位重量 total mass per unit
2. 底部单位重量 mass of backing cloth per unit area
3. 总厚度 over al l thickness
4. 表层单位重量 mass of coating per unit area
5. 抗张强度及伸长率 tensile strength and elongation at break
6. 破裂强度 grain crack strength
7. 撕裂强度 tongue tear strength
8. 表面粘合强度 coating adhesion strength
9. 耐寒温度试验 cold crack temperature
10. 曲折试验 resistance to damage by flexing
11. 老化试验 aging test
12. 抗渗水性试验 resistance to penetration by water
13. 耐磨试验 abrasion resistance
color fastness to rubbing
color fastness to light
中底试验(tests for insoles)
1. 中底剥离强度 resistance to peeling insole board
2. 硬纸板抗强度 tensile strength of fiber board
3. 浸汗液后耐磨擦试验 resistance of board finish to rubbing when damp with perspiration
4. 浸水后耐磨擦试验 resistance of board finish to rubbing when damp with water
5. 耐磨擦坚牢度 rubbing fastness of board finish
6. 硬纸板耐磨度 scuff resistance of fiberboard
7. 硬纸板耐曲折 flexing resistance of fiberboard
鞋底物料试验(tests for soling materials)
1.密度 density
2.厚度 thickness
3.硬度 hardness
4.抗张强度及伸长率 tensile strength and elongation at break
5.发泡类鞋底撕裂强度 split tear strength of cellular soling
6.曲折试验 ross flexing resistance room temperature
7.耐磨试验 abrasion resistance
8. 发泡类鞋底对热缩率 heating shrinkage of cellular soling
9. 橡胶底含灰量 ash content of rubber soling
鞋履配件试验(test for accessories)
1. 鞋带强度 shoe lace strength
2. 拉链强度 zipper strength
3. 金属鞋孔/铯/扣储 appearance after storage of metallic/eyelet/lace hook/buckle
4. 粘扣带剪刀试验 shear strength of hook-and –loop fastener
5. 缝线强度 sewing thread strength
公司英文职位/部门名称
董事长CEO/president/board of director 总管理部总经理 general manager
副总经理 vice general manager 执行副总经理 executive vice general manager
协理 asst.general manager 厂长 factory manager
经理 manager 副经理 vice manager
主任 dean 副主任 vice dean
科长 chief 副科长 vice chief
组长 supervisor 员工 employee 高级版师 senior pattern technician 初级版师 junior pattern technician 中/高级助理 junior/senior assistant 华风公司 Waffle Shoe MFG..Corp. 瑞星鞋厂 ray shine 生产处 production vision 二厂区 factory zone two 生管科 production planning section 底部 lasting department 班长 monitor
版师 pattern technician
中级版师 ordinary pattern technician
中/高级专员 junior/senior specialist
业务员 merchandiser
瑞恩鞋厂 bright ease
总经理办公室 general manager office
一厂区 factory zone one
机修科 machine maintenance section
面部 stitching department
半成品科 semi-production section
冲机科 cutting room/impacted section 纲版组 screen printing section
刀模块 cutting die section 料务科/货仓 warehouse
中仓科 semi-production 购料组 material purchasing division
皮料科 leather division 收发科 receiving and distribution department
品管处 quality control department 品保科 quality assurance section
品管科 quality check section 总管理部行政组 administration team
计算器中心 computer center 教育训练中心 education and training center
管理改善小组 management reforming team 评估小组 auditing office
业务开发科 R&D department 业务科 merchandising section
开发科 developing section 工技处 technical engeering department
样品室 sample room 技术科 technical section
放版组 computer grading section 面/底版组 vamp/lasting section
技转组 technical transferring section 备料组 material preparation team
资料组 document section 总务处 general affairs department
财务科 financial section 采购科purchase section
消防组 fire fighter section 行政科 administration section
人事科 personnel section 报关科 custom section
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